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  1. Related repair history: left rear proximity sensor was damaged due to accident also damaged was harness connector to left rear proximity sensor. bmw sold us a repair kit after installing harness and new sensor code keeps returning for left proximity sensor Original post date: 09/13/2005 12:39 PM Original author: Original topic: PROXIMITY SENSOR CODE Vehicle: 1996 BMW 750IL WBAGK2321TDH67239 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 81,000 miles Engine: 12 CYL Category: Body Affected systems: Electronics - Electronics Scan tool: Miscellaneous: Any help would gladly be appreciated.has anyone used repair kit. Dealer advised us that new complete harness for proximity sensors was available but was a labor intense job.has anyone used these repair kits. How did you connect solder , butt conn ??? Replies Date Author Subject / Message 09/13/2005 12:52 PM Angelo Campana RE: Proximity Sensor Code Just touched base with a fellow technician that works in a body shop. He stated that IF the proximity sensor is loose, vibration from the bumper assembly will set this code. Also, all of the harness fixes have been using this kit with no problem. Just solder it into the harness. 09/14/2005 10:57 AM RE: Proximity Sensor Code Outstanding help Angelo, we soldered wires and car is down the road no more codes and customer was very happy. BMW wanted $1800.00 for repair and parts were 23.60 our cost we spent one hour on car and five minutes with you on phone. and got paid for 10.9 hours. Thanks a million!!!!!!!!!!!
  2. Related repair history: Car came in for A/C blowing warm, no A/C clutch power. G65 switch at 27% duty cycle after dump and fill of all referigerant. Replaced left fan, both come on with switch F18, but not with A/C on. Input from switch E-35 +12v. Fuses s5, s225, s16, s164, s180 all good, no meltdown evidence. Have switched F38 ambient switch, J293 fan controller, G65 sensor, all from known good vehicle, and no change. Am unsure of the input that is a square wave of some sort to terminal T14/13 of J293 from the instrument cluster, and I also have no clue what the eventual finish of T14/11 of J293 is after it passes into T10w/6. If I manually excite the clutch, it draws about 3-4 amps, but will push the high side pressure very high, since the fans do not come on until F18 says it is hot enough. Interior fan works on all speeds, switch lights responsive to their respective positions. There are no faults in the ECM, and since this is a manual system, there is no place to look for faults in HVAC. By all indications, I should have a functioning system, but I don't. Thank you all for addressing this nightmare for me. Original post date:09/13/2005 01:26PM Original author: Original topic: A/C Compressor INOP Vehicle: 2000 VOLKSWAGEN Jetta 3VWSA29M84M127415 Transmission: Manual Mileage: 57,000 miles Engine: AEG 2.0 Category: Electrical System Affected systems: Climate Control - Climate Control Scan tool: Miscellaneous: HELP ME FIX THIS DEMON!!!! Replies Date Author Subject / Message 09/14/2005 08:00 AM David Meeks RE: A/C Compressor INOP Morning Thomas, Think you have a bad ground connection--somewhere--try looking under the battery box, think there are 3 grounds under there #608 grd in center plenum and 193 in coolant fan harness. Dave 09/15/2005 01:52 PM RE: A/C Compressor INOP Ok Thomas, seems like you have checked everything but you write about exciting the clutch manually and high side pressure being too high. Have a look at the expansion valve, no matter what with the car running and compressor engaged, the expansion valve should control R134. Make sure you have a good known valve before any more testing. Angelo informs me that you have access to good information. I have the similar with some extras. Contact me at if help is required. The ground connections are as important under the battery, make sure that it done as in the earlier post with D. Meeks. I also have a pinout test sheet for 3293 that will test it in circuit. 09/19/2005 07:03 AM RE: A/C Compressor INOP Well guys, Thank you all for being so helpful! The fix was a NEW fan control module. I do not understand that one, as we tried two known good modules with no success, but as soon as I plugged the NEW one in, everything worked wonderfully. Here's to a great day for all and thanks again! Thomas
  3. Related repair history: Original post date: 09/20/2005 09:23 AM Original author: David Meeks Original topic: GROUP cheat sheet description Vehicle: 2005 MERCEDES BENZ ALL wdb12345678 Transmission: Mileage: miles Engine: Category: Affected systems: Scan tool: Miscellaneous: Looking for a repair Replies Date Author Subject / Message 09/20/2005 08:18 PM Angelo Campana RE: GROUP cheat sheet description So David, What type of "cheat sheet" are we looking for? Guess I need to get the Tech Forum up for this Your post did not place completely. Give it another shot. Tech Forum, here it comes. 09/21/2005 04:32 AM David Meeks RE: GROUP cheat sheet description Hey, Like the group #`s in 34=XXX 14=xxx to help me find info without scanning thru the jazz? Do you catch my drift? Maybe it should go in the library, but a tech forum will be nice to discuss stuff.. Dave 09/24/2005 02:18 PM Angelo Campana RE: GROUP cheat sheet description Mercedes Repair Groups and sub-groups to be finished and loaded by Monday. More additional make, model tables also have been uploaded as of this morning. 09/27/2005 12:45 PM Angelo Campana RE: GROUP cheat sheet description Mercedes Reapir Group Cheat Sheet loaded. Take a look. Ask and you shall receive. 09/28/2005 07:08 AM David Meeks * RE: GROUP cheat sheet description Thanks Angelo, Great Info, will help alot. Library is growing with good info to help us all in the future. Good idea to cruize it before posting a help request. Dave
  4. Related repair history: Vehicle came in at 114,000 for codes in the dme 62, 50, 75, 63. replaced the spark plugs and wires due to wear and damage to the #1 wire. Told customer that it might need a coil at that time but the misfire went away. Original post date: 09/17/2005 10:52 AM Original author: Original topic: misfire codes Vehicle: 1996 BMW 318i 4USCD73Z1TLC50323 Transmission: 5 Speed Mileage: 118,420 miles Engine: 1.9 E36 Category: Engine Affected systems: Electrical - Electrical Scan tool: Miscellaneous: car came back in with codes in the dme 27, 62, 50, 52, 53, 51. I know that the last 5 are misfire codes but am unsure of code 27. I don't want to put just a coil on the car if i have another problem. Have cleared codes and reset adaptation while customer drives the car over the weekend. Thanks for the responses. KEVIN Replies Date Author Subject / Message 09/17/2005 12:10 PM Angelo Campana RE: Misfire Codes Kevin, First we need to verify that there are NO vacuum or induction leaks anywhere along the MAF to the intake. Second, these coils were prone to fail. By "Current Ramping" them, this wil verify if it is even a coil. Do they have the Bosch or Beru coils? Random misfires, not "dead hole" misfires, are commonly caused by fuel trim going real lean (multiplicative type) caused by a defective MAF. Does the engine "dead miss"? If you need schematics for this "old bird", can send them to you Monday. If you are unfamiliar with Current Ramping, go to for this procedure. I will send scope examples of this procedure for you to view. Will eventually get them into a waveform library (constructing it now). Keep us posted. 09/19/2005 07:10 AM RE: Misfire Codes You might want to check the "Hockey Puck", that little glorified pcv valve on the intake manifold. They are notorious for leaking internally and causing lean mis-fire conditions that can set the codes you describe. Thomas 09/19/2005 11:07 AM RE: Misfire Codes The car came back in this morning with the check engine light back on. Only had codes 26 and 27 this time in the dme. Smoked the intake and found leaks at the pcv and hoses as well as at the (i believe this is the name) the idle stabilizer valve. It bolts to the lower intake, is black with 1 electrical connection. have the parts ordered and will give final post shortly. KEVIN 09/22/2005 11:42 AM RE: Misfire Codes Aafter putting all the parts on that i mentioned above, re-smoking the car and driving it for about 70 miles everything is fine. Checked the readiness this morning with baum as OBDII and all was good. Some systems said "not supported", so I assume that there is no readiness test for that system, the rest said "completed". I have learned valuable lessons from this car to save myself time in the future. Thanks to Angelo and Thomas. KEVIN
  5. Related repair history: none Original post date: 09/26/2005 05:57 PM Original author: Original topic: Climate Control Vehicle: 2002 BMW 325i WBAET37462NG74876 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 55,264 miles Engine: M54 Category: Body Affected systems: Climate Control - Climate Control Scan tool: Miscellaneous: Complaint is that with the a/c on the fan will stop and not come back on until the key is cycled. Doesn't matter what the fan speed is.Checked for with Auto Logic and found (AUC Heating) code in the IKE modual.I couldn't find any info. on code diagnostics for this later BMW any help would be great. Thanks...........Curt Replies Date Author Subject / Message 09/27/2005 09:00 AM Angelo Campana RE: Climate Control Need codes produced for any help on this end. 09/27/2005 09:11 AM RE: Climate Control Sounds like a control module issue. Here's a site that could help if this is the root cause As Angelo has asked, fault codes and a better description would help in narrowing down the fault. 09/28/2005 07:47 AM David Meeks RE: Climate Control Check your blower motor resistor --pas side under glove box cover-wiggle wires--updated part. Maybe go into the gm and check for codes.GM is master controller for k-bus , which monitors hi speed fan, I think. I/K bus voltage monitoring 12 volt steady(with no activity)=short to power 5 volt--flat lined=open or bad controller ..see if the re-circulation button works..also 4 way flasher will see if the i/k lines is working. Blower control knob(42 steps) is the master control for the IHKA system. Check CAR/KEY memory function as these can change how the system works... Dave 10/10/2005 05:18 PM RE: Climate Control We installed a new fan speed resistor and all is well. Thanks for the replys! Curt
  6. Related repair history: replaced throttle valve control module Original post date: 09/22/2005 01:47 PM Original author: Original topic: throttle adaption won't set Vehicle: 1997 VOLKSWAGEN Jetta 3VWVB81H1VM094796 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 110,300 miles Engine: ABA Category: Engine Affected systems: Electronics - Electronics Scan tool: Miscellaneous: After replacing the throttle module we keep getting ERROR in channel 4 when tring to set adaption. We have tried disconnecting battery and hooking cables together with no luck. Any ideas would be great! Curt Replies Date Author Subject / Message 09/22/2005 03:33 PM David Meeks RE: Throttle Adaption won't Set Try unbolting the throttle from the intake...see if it will adapt...think there was a problem with warped intakes. Next: try recoding the module--01 eng coding, function 07..will it take a recode? if not log in with 02183..this will default the e-prom and set all adaptations to zero..retry. Hope it helps Dave 09/22/2005 05:37 PM RE: Throttle Adaption won't Set David, We tried unbolting it and still no luck.Can this recoding be done with a Baum CS2000 scan tool? 09/22/2005 07:19 PM Angelo Campana RE: Throttle Adaption won't Set First of all Curt, are you using the newest version software of the CS2000? With the early version of the software, when you go into Basic Settings, Data Block 098 (which ever applies to this ECM), channel 4 may show "ADP Runs", then goes to "ADP OK". Data Field 3 should display"IDLE". Wait at least 30 seconds before ending basic setting! If it shows "ERROR", this may be caused by codes stored in the ECM and/or TCM. All Codes MUST be cleared before proceeding with Basic Settings. NOTE! If the basic setting is interrupted by the ECM, it can be, that the throttle valve is not at the mechanical idle stop due to contamination (e.g. coking) or an incorrectly adjusted accelerator cable. After confirming the display group 098 the Throttle Position (TP) actuator will be moved to the minimum, maximum, and then into the start position. The control module stores the appropriate throttle valve angle in the permanent memory. The throttle valve will then remain in the start position. If this ECM Basic Settings takes, you then adapt the transmission TCM. Go into transmission, Basic Settings, Data Block 000, "Enter". Put the "Pedal to the Metal" for 5 seconds and then release. Exit the program. Call me if you have further questions or need additional information. 09/22/2005 10:30 PM RE: Throttle Adaption won't Set There are three measured blocks to look at idle in basic settings: 140 field 1 Engine load 1.4 to 2.4ms 2 Current throttle motor position 65 to 85% 3 Throttle position sensor voltage 3.0 to 5.0v 4 Diagnostic conditions are meaningless 141 field 1 Actual position of throttle valve 65 to 85% 2 Actual position of throttle valve (target) 65 to 85% 3 Actual position of throttle valve (controller) 90 to 170 4 Diagnostic conditions are meaningless 142 field 1 Throttle valve actuator emergency running cross section 65 to 85% 2 Throttle valve actuator minimum stop 65 to 85% 3 Throttle valve actuator maximum stop 3 to 24% 4 Diagnostic conditions are meaningless In basic setting 098 key on engine off 098 field 1 Throttle position sensor voltage 4.000 to 5.000V 2 Throttle position actuator voltage 3.000 to 4.000V 3 Operating mode Idle 4 Basic setting status ADP.runs and ADP.OK Copy and paste this one and agree with Angelo clear ECM with TCM faults ... clean throttle body and adjust the cable. 10/10/2005 10:48 AM * RE: Throttle Adaption won't Set We found a voltage supply wire for the throttle motor was pulled out of the t26a connector. We repaired the wire and the throttle adaption set. Thanks for all help! Curt 10/10/2005 10:07 PM RE: Throttle Adaption won't Set Hence this value: 140 field 1 Engine load 1.4 to 2.4ms 2 Current throttle motor position 65 to 85% 3 Throttle position sensor voltage 3.0 to 5.0v 4 Diagnostic conditions are meaningless field three having no voltage .. good fix then
  7. Related repair history: Installed new top. Original post date: 10/19/2005 11:39 AM Original author: Original topic: ABS light ON Vehicle: 1991 PORSCHE 944S2 Cabrio. WP00B2945MN440295 Transmission: 5 Speed Mileage: 123,589 miles Engine: 4Cyl. Category: Brakes / Mechanical / Hydraulics Affected systems: ABS - ASR - ABS - ASR Scan tool: Miscellaneous: Had the ABS relay out and turned on the key, light is on now.Isthere any way to reset the light with out a scan tool? I tried hooking the battery cables togther with no luck. Any help would be great.....Curt Replies Date Author Subject / Message 10/19/2005 11:55 AM Angelo Campana RE: ABS light ONYou'll need a Modic or PST2 to reset this ABS light to OFF. Baum has aPorsche software that will also do this function. Without the software, you're S.O.L. on this one. Any other ideas out there guys?? 10/19/2005 03:17 PM * RE: ABS light ONTried to reset this with the Baum tool.This a 91 and it has no reset forthe antilock light.I found the shop that put the top on had put the antilock relay in relay position 21 instead of position 20 were it belongs.All is good now. Thanks for the reply
  8. Related repair history: Original post date: 10/07/2005 07:06 PM Original author: Original topic: Transmission Clunks When Shifting Vehicle: 2000 BMW 325i WBAAV3341FU76849 Transmission: 8HP19 Mileage: 43,959 miles Engine: 2.5 Category: Transmission Affected systems: Electronics - Electronics Scan tool: Miscellaneous: Transmission clunks or bangs when shifting intermittently. The following codes were in vehicle. transmission fluid temp sensor, 123 map cooling activation, wheel speed sensors l/r front. Replies Date Author Subject / Message 10/08/2005 06:35 AM Angelo Campana RE: Transmission Clunks When Shifting John, I am assuming that this code 123 is in the DME controller? 123 P1622 Electric Thermostat Control, final stage: The final stage inside the DME will set an internal flag whenever a short to ground, a short to battery voltage or a disconnection between the output transistor and the connected component. Most of the time, this is set by a shorted electronic thermostat (replace the thermostat assembly - common problem on the 540 and 740 models also,but they set a 139 and 140 code). Regarding the slippage of the transmission, at 40K mileage, it's hard to believe. You know this "lifetime" fluid that they put in these new models? I tell the customer....."Not YOUR lifetime, but the transmission's lifetime". Check for codes in the transmission and all the rest of the controllers on board. Sounds as if there is a voltage or the vehicle has been overheated issue. Could be a "meltdown" due to abuse. Also, please state the scanner that you are using. This will help me troubleshoot this for you. 10/08/2005 08:53 AM David Meeks RE: Transmission Clunks When Shifting If you put the car in second gear, accelerate on it hard, do you hear the clunking? This is not the center support bearing on the drive shaft is it? Maybe a front drive disc? Seems fairly new, but we don't know how it has been hammered on, just a thought Dave 10/25/2005 03:03 PM RE: Transmission Clunks When Shifting Customer declined repairs (trading vehicle in)
  9. Related repair history: New customer Original post date: 10/19/2005 06:31 PM Original author: Original topic: Airbag light on Vehicle: 2001 BMW 325i WBAAV33441FU92680 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 85,963 miles Engine: 6 Cyl. Category: Body Affected systems: SRS - Airbag - SRS - Airbag Scan tool: Miscellaneous: We have a airbag light on and get a code 2-ignition circuit ZK1,drivers belt-tensioner with a Baum cs2000 scanner.I get seat belt tensioner (drivers side) resistance too high with a Auto logic.We cleared the code and it comes right back.The car looks like it has had body work repair in the front so I believe the tensioner fired in the wreck but was never replaced. How would I check to make sure that is the problem before replacing it. All We have for info. is Alldata and it gives no proceedure for testing. Any help would be great. Curt Replies Date Author Subject / Message 10/19/2005 07:44 PM RE: Airbag Light On I believe you'll see that in a measured block. There is a test harness I heard of that will simulate an intact airbag assy or belt tensioner. At least the test harness would display no faults if no other issues are presant. Try this phone number for SPX Corp. 800-345-3399 you may get this test part faster and less expensive. Go to a Volvo dealer and buy a test connector part # 9988695 and plug it in instead of tensioner. This tool is good for airbags and seat belt tensioner testing. 10/21/2005 09:13 AM David Meeks RE: Airbag Light On Morning Curt, I see the body shops miss these tensioners all the time, if you look at the tensioner height, you will see that it has shrunk a couple of inches from its original height(compared to other side also) This was around the year when BMW decided that they had to much trouble with these seat belt tensioners and upgraded them to hall effect sensor be careful. They say that if the airbag light is on(from a bad pretensioner) it will deploy BOTH airbags in an accident. The switches go out all the time on the older cars and turn the light on, make sure you blow these off in a vise before disposal. Be careful of the little cable on the left side of the rear) when you replace these tensioners Dave 10/23/2005 11:54 AM RE: Airbag Light On Thanks for the replies.I purchased the Volvo tool,worked great. Installed the new belt tensioner reset the light with the Autologic and all is good. P.S. Great class yesterday in Sacramento Angelo! 10/24/2005 07:52 AM Angelo Campana RE: Airbag Light On Curt, Had a great time myself at the class. Makes it worthwhile when I have a great classroom of fellow technicians interacting. Now I'm, "hunkering down" with WILMA hitting Florida. Getting 60+ mph winds and a LOT of rain. Working from the home as they are not allowing any traffic in the city unless it is an emergency. Will hold the fort down here for most of the day. If you need to reach me, call me on my cell (321) 624-2699.
  10. Related repair history: Original post date: 10/27/2005 01:42 PM Original author: Brian Washburn Original topic: Locating Map sensor -G31- Vehicle: 1999 AUDI A4 WAUGB28D4XA066676 Transmission: 5 Speed Mileage: 98,105 miles Engine: AEB Category: Engine Affected systems: Electronics - Electronics Scan tool: Miscellaneous: I can't find the map sensor in this car anywhere, all data and vesis both say it should be on top of the intercooler and its not there. Also looked in induction and pressure sides of hoses and on the manifold. Maybe I'm just overlooking it... Can someone tell me and Angelo where it is. Replies Date Author Subject / Message 10/27/2005 02:24 PM David Meeks RE: Locating Map Sensor -G31- G-31 is for a 2.7 where the 2 pipes connect to the throttle, wont find it in VESIS, Aesis is for audacious cars....1.8 aeb engine dont have one....Is the info you gave correct? What are we fighting here? Codes etc? Customer complaint? Dave 10/27/2005 02:35 PM Brian Washburn RE: Locating Map Sensor -G31- I'm dealing with a lack of power on this car Dave. I pulled about 2 or 3 cups of oil out of the intercooler at the lower hose. I checked this after several other things. Measuring block 114 field 2 and 3 are supposed to be the same meausrment. Mine are 7.3 and 4.0. I wanted to check the map sensor as i have ruled out the MAF sensor and fixed vacuum leaks. I must have gotten the component designation number mixed up in my head, Angelo gave me a number for it and I've forgotten now. I just found the turbo is seized, but i would still like to know where the map sensor is on this car or if it has one. THIS IS AN AEB 1.8 1999 12/98 Thanks Jay 10/27/2005 03:16 PM RE: Locating Map Sensor -G31- (G-31)There is no MAP for this series engine. You will find one on a TDI for example on top of the intercooler (on some models). For what reason do you need to look at it? Are there any faults? Maybe a few if the turbo is seized. Are you trying to find a reason why the turbo seized? There are definate ones and Angelo has two technical bulletins I sent to him that will explain the oil consumption, burning and or low oil pressure problems plaguing this engine. Even turbo failures are attributed to these bulletins. If this is the case, then follow these bulletins carefully or send an Email, I have what's needed. A.F. 10/27/2005 03:20 PM RE: Locating Map Sensor -G31- (G-31)Check your Email Jason, I send some good reading material 10/27/2005 06:39 PM Brian Washburn RE: Locating Map Sensor -G-31- I'm going to close this help request for now so it does not take attention from other posts that need the help. When I get 5 minutes of free time away from doing tires, thanks to the huricane and the snow it dumped on us, I'm going to check the engine and hoses for clogging issues and see if I can isolate the reason for the turbo failure. Thanks for the help Jay 10/28/2005 09:27 AM RE: Locating Map Sensor -G31- Just a thought, could it be that you are really looking for F-96 Baro sensor? If so, it is in the E-box left cowl area. Just a thought........... Best Regards, Thomas
  11. Related repair history: 1 month ago, replaced leaking plastic flange. 2 weeks agao, replaced thermostat and checked water pump impeller. Original post date: 10/25/2005 10:14 PM Original author: Howard Pitkow Original topic: Raditor Fans INOP Vehicle: 2000 VOLKSWAGEN beetle 3VWSC21C71156987 Transmission: Manual Mileage: 39,855 miles Engine: 2.0L AEG Category: Cooling System Affected systems: Electrical - Electrical Scan tool: Miscellaneous: It's Baaack. The engine is once again overheating. This time it is electrical. With the radiator thermswitch unplugged, one terminal has 12V. Jumping to either of the other two terminals does nothing. The ground connections are good at both fans. If I jump 12V at the thermoswith to the red/white wire, it will light a test light at both red/white wires at the fan connectors. Jumping 12V to the red/black wire at the thermoswitch does nothing to the red/black wires at the fan connectors. If I jump 12V to the red/black wires of either fan connector, the corrosponding fan will run. Jumping 12v to the red/white wire of either fan connector does nothing. I have swapped the control module but that is not the answer. All fuses in the fuse box are good and the above battery fuse box and green 30A fuses are all good. Nothing burnt here. The water pump has been checked by replacing the thermostat and feeling the impeller. The overflow hose drips coolant back into the bottle is itshould. At the end of the day I did notice this, with KOEO and the A/C turned ON, neither fan runs and the A/C clutch is not activated. I beleive this is related somehow. In the morning I plan on turning the KOEO with the A/C on and at the same time, wiggle the green 30A fuses. I feel it must have something to do with this but am starting to get frustrated. The engine will run and idle until it overflows from the bottle and the red light flashes. Any and all sugestions will be appreciated. Thanks. Replies Date Author Subject / Message 10/26/2005 07:01 AM Angelo Campana RE: Radiator Fans INOP Howard, Did you check all of the ground connections under the battery....what a pain to get to. Will check Vesis for any information related to this. 10/26/2005 08:51 AM RE: Radiator Fans INOP I sent a file to Angelo, he'll relay it back to you. Post your cures, fixes and questions 10/26/2005 09:34 AM Angelo Campana RE: Radiator Fans INOP Engine overheats Howard Posted the file to the Library for you to view and print. Also sent you the factory pinout for this model. Trying to get these files onto the site as fast as I can do this. Let me know what's happenning. 10/28/2005 12:13 AM Howard Pitkow RE: Radiator Fans INOP After much testing it was determined that BOTH radiator fans had failed. Jumping the thermo switch did nothing and either did jumping the fan connectors just below the thermo switch. The right side fan was shot and the left side only had high speed. However, the engine would overheat before that would ever come on. This was a good learning experience as the fan and thermo switch strategy is different than earlier models. On this engine you should be able to jump the thermo switch from the 12V terminal (Red) to the low speed terminal (Red/White). However, to jump the high speed fan you must connect all 3 wires. You must leave the (Red) and the (Red/White) connected as you then jump them to the (Red/Black). My suspicion is that this car has overheated several times. One of the fans probably quit some time ago and the second fan just finally gave up. While I never base my repairs on Dealer Parts department sales activity or Swaptronics, it as interesting for them to tell me when I ordered one of the fans that they had been replacing several sets of these fans each week for a good long run. The next one will be a home run, this one was a learning experience. Thank you to Angelo for the diagnostic advise and printouts. Once I isolated the fans it was quite easy to determine that they were faulty. 10/28/2005 07:47 AM Angelo Campana RE: Radiator Fans INOP Excellent FIX post Howard. This is what'll make our database THE ONE! 10/28/2005 09:40 AM RE: Radiator Fans INOP Just my 2 cents worth. I had several of the 99-02 VW 2 liters lately that had a bad left fan, so many that ANY VW that comes in the shop gets me to verify the fans integrity. Got tired of getting bit by the overheat bug. Good job, Thomas
  12. Related repair history: Unknown from another shop Original post date: 09/23/2005 02:58 PM Original author: Original topic: Engine Electronics Vehicle: 1993 VOLKSWAGEN Passat WVWND4314PE145948 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 120,000 miles Engine: VR6 Category: Electrical System Affected systems: Electronics - Electronics Scan tool: Miscellaneous: Wagon Need current flow diagram for this 1993 Passat wagon, AAA engine Thanks, Thomas Angelo, I got the hint!! Replies Date Author Subject / Message 09/23/2005 06:24 PM RE: Engine Electronics The fuse powers T28/11 at the instrument cluster luggage compartment light with switch glove box light cigarette lighter Radio Power door locks if installed ABS diagnostic connector if installed Interior lighting DLC connector. I don't see this fuse causing a no spark condition. There were slight issues with water damaging the fuse block (internally) 09/23/2005 06:38 PM Angelo Campana RE: Engine Electronics Have this at home on my Elsa Win system (for earlier models), and will send it. Please POST the REAL VIN for this vehicle and I'll place it in the original post. It makes it easier to find the right information when you have the REAL VIN. Thanks! Angelo 10/04/2005 04:12 PM RE: Engine Electronics I have edited the VIN to give the REAL one. In the VR6 wiring for a 93 Golf, The Vesis troubleshooter indicated fuse 18 and 21 must both be good, but I did not see a tie in that car, either. Thanks, Thomas 10/05/2005 01:26 PM RE: Engine Electronics File is sent, see it that works. 10/19/2005 06:30 AM RE: Engine Electronics Thank you for the file, but it was for a 4 cyl, and of course different. I am still fighting this one, as it seems that no one will acknowlege there ever was a VR6 in 1993. If I use the current flow for a 1995 model, I get the closest to what is real on this vehicle, and it appears that the ECU is the culprit here, and the mysterious fuse blowing has stopped all by itself. (God, I hate when that happens!) Am awaiting for an ECU to confirm my diagnosis. Sorry that I have not posted sooner, but it has been crazy here lately. 10/19/2005 06:56 AM Angelo Campana RE: Engine Electronics I understand Thomas, you guys are busy........and that's good .....right? Just want to make sure that everyone follows suit posting. All of this gets archived for searchable information. Keep us posted, and thanks! 10/19/2005 10:41 AM RE: Engine Electronics Check with Angelo, I sent him something that works. Post the cure when you come to it. And as for blowing the fuse, I did see two some time ago. It's hard to see it on the schematic but the O2 was fused in that position and did blow off. So to test the theory, add an in-line fuse near the O2 harness and see if it does go open circuit. The other was near the fuel pump harness rubbing on the fuel lines ... easy to see that one. 10/28/2005 09:17 AM RE: Engine Electronics OK, Here is the final fix on this puppy. After going crazy to find a diagram that fit this car, (Thanks, Angelo), I found the intake heater element was shorted, so I disconnected it and cut the wires. I did that because when you get a new intake boot, it comes with a fake heater installed in it, telling me that VW doesn't consider them of any value anymore. Further testing revealed that all of the inputs were getting to the ECM, but it was not sending the ignition pulse signal back out to the ignition module. New ECM fixed that. Gotta love these basket cases that have been to every other shop within a 75 mile radius before they get to you. Thanks to all, Thomas 10/28/2005 03:03 PM RE: Engine Electronics Good fix Thomas, there have been other instances of that heater causing the same problem except it would melt the plastic intake tube. Did you find it in the schematics? was that element there?
  13. Related repair history: Original post date: 10/27/2005 05:38 PM Original author: Eduardo Avelar Original topic: Engine runs rough Vehicle: 2001 MERCEDES BENZ C320 WDBRF64J2F087179 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: miles Engine: 112 Category: Engine Affected systems: Mechanical - Mechanical Scan tool: Miscellaneous: Customer complained engine runs rough at idle in drive. Found no fault codes. Check with Autologic, found cylinder #6 out of range in smooth running. Replace ignition wire #6 to correct problem. Replies Date Author Subject / Message 10/27/2005 06:32 PM RE: Engine Runs Rough Are the compression values ok? If so and the ignition system checks out Have a look at the injection system provided fuel pressure is within limits. If you can get to use a Snap-On motorvac, you make have luck in cleaning the injection system. 10/28/2005 08:00 AM Angelo Campana RE: Engine Runs Rough Eduardo, Are you sure that you have the correct VIN number. Need to make sure that the engine is a 111, or if is a Kompressor version. Tried to run this VIN in the Mercedes WIS, and got a wrong or improper VIN. Need this to supply you with diagnostics. 10/28/2005 07:37 PM David Meeks RE: Engine Runs Rough Hi Eduardo, Didnt know the autologic had a "smothness Test", its like running a constant compression test---sorta, as the engine Idles, I use this on BMW sometimes and like the missfire counter using the Tech-2. Found some bent rods from water damage using that feature. It also had a rough idle-intermittently. Strange it didnt pick up the missfire with obd2 protocol,mine did after a road test, must have been contributing just enough to cause a rough idle. Good find, bet it would have been tougher without that nice scanner? You should Post this as a fix, just click the square box in the corner of a reply. Dave 10/30/2005 07:30 PM Eduardo Avelar RE: Engine Runs Rough Customer complained engine runs rough at idle in drive. Found no fault codes. Check with Autologic, found cylinder #6 out of range in smooth running. Replace ignition wire #6 to correct problem. Thanks for all the help Eduardo and Pedro
  14. Related repair history: New customer, no related repair history.Looks like radiator was replaced recently. Original post date: 11/02/2005 09:06 AM Original author: Original topic: Hard code 139 Activation,map cooling Vehicle: 1998 BMW 740i WBAGF8329WDL50458 Transmission: Automatic Mileage: 104,590 miles Engine: 4.4L Category: Cooling System Affected systems: Electrical - Electrical Scan tool: Miscellaneous: The most I can get from the customer is, he was on a short drive and he noticed it running rougher than normal and at that time he noticed the check engine lamp on and temp gauge was pegged?. He pulled over and within a minute or so the gauge came back down to normal and engine seemed to smooth out. He drove immediately and parked car. Started it the next day and it seemed to be running rough so he shut it off and had it towed. Car starts and runs fine here with the exception of code 139 not able to be cleared. I don't have much info on the electronic t-stat ect. and would like to know more before I start testing.Any help with theory and operation would be very helpful. THANKS Replies Date Author Subject / Message 11/02/2005 09:12 AM Angelo Campana RE: Hard code 139 Activation,Map Cooling With code 139 and 140 in the DME, replace the thermostat assembly using an OEM unit from the dealer. Check that sensor wiring harness that it hasn't shorted and melted to the DME. If so, "Pop Goes the Weasel" to the DME. Seen this plenty. Guarantee that the thermostat assembly and the sensor is "toasted". Also, check for coolant migration in that portion of the harness. Know problem related to that the harness is tie wrapped against the bracket and wears through causing a short. Inspect that harness REAL CLOSE for that. Repair as needed and POST your fix please. 11/02/2005 01:15 PM RE: Hard code 139 Activation,Map Cooling After doing some initial testing, I found the thermostat to be shorted internally. I visually inspected wiring to the DME from stat and dual temp sw. both wiring circuits were well harnessed and protected. Due to the fact the t-stat was shorted I ohm checked wiring to DME and no open circuits.I connected new t-stat to verify clearing of 139 and it cleared immediately. As far as DME's ability to properly control t-stat,I wont know till I get everything installed along with a list of other repairs. I'm sure it's fixed for now, but if problems arise later I'll re-post. Thanks for the fast respose/repair info. Marv
  15. Related repair history: none,new client. Original post date: 10/28/2005 11:30 AM Original author: Original topic: Check Engine light Vehicle: 1997 BMW M3 WBSCD0321VEE10018 Transmission: 5 Speed Mileage: 171,197 miles Engine: 6 Cyl. Category: Engine Affected systems: Electrical - Electrical Scan tool: Miscellaneous: We keep getting code 233-Total Cat. Converter efficiency too low bank 1. Code -251 Tank leak detection,minor leak with our Autologic. I'm not sure were to start with these,I cleared them and they both came back in about 100 miles of driving.Any help would be great. Replies Date Author Subject / Message 10/28/2005 02:00 PM RE: Check Engine light Curt, As far as the tank leak detection fault, check the vapor tank in front of the fuel filler behind the plastic inner liner, as well as the sensor that is attached to it, as the nipples crack and the sensors do fail at times. With the miles that you have on that one, it would not surprise me to see a bad cat. Best Regards, Thomas 10/28/2005 03:39 PM Angelo Campana RE: Check Engine Light 251 P0442 EVAP System - Leak Detected (small leak)With the purge and shut off valves closed the gas tank is introduced to intake manifold vacuum. The tank pressure sensor looks for a predetermined pressure (vacuum) difference within a specific time. 233 P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Bank 1, Below Threshold Compares the value of the of pre cat O2 sensor to value of the post cat O2 sensor to measure the oxygen storage capability / efficiency of the catalytic converter. The post O2 sensor must be relatively lean. For the code 233, check the output waveform at the O2 sensor after the catalyst. You should see 650 to 750mV output and steady. Any fluctuations, your catalyst is toast.....tell me it ain't so. If the catalyst if defective ONLY OE replacment, or you'll be sorry. I'd advise to smoke test the EVAP system. You do have a smoke machine?? If not, see Pete Koupas, he has them in stock for cheap. 11/01/2005 01:37 PM RE: Check Engine Lght Installed correct fuel filter cap,that took care oftank leak detection code.Found the car in need of service, replaced spark plugs and the almost clogged air filter that took care of the cat. efficency code. Cleared codes and all the readiness codes reset after a few drive cycles. I guess we should have not taken the customers word when they said it was just serviced. Thanks for the replys....Curt