Mike Webb

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Mike Webb last won the day on May 4

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About Mike Webb

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  1. Yes, i have linked that very tool in previous posts. However, last night i could not find it in their search window tool
  2. That would be easier if you were using a DLC Breakout box http://www.automotivetestsolutions.com/dlc-breakout-box.html i have an older one from AESwave from around 1997 .... https://www.aeswave.com/aes-linespi-smart-bob-p8754.html Mine predates the LEDs but is still very useful And in VW land if you loose T15 or T30 to the DLC very often it is because the cigarette lighter fuse popped because there is too much drain or a penny has been inserted by a mischievous child .....
  3. Sometimes, it would be helpful to have the full strategy of the operating conditions / protocol, of how things on the network interact. Which is why the code setting criteria in generic in Elsa/repair/engine is great to have sometimes That does not apply to this though We just have to give it our best guess .... more coconut oil is required
  4. i have one now i am chewing thru ..... it did have the interior lights manually switched on ..... it did have a bad AW 09 , J519 was no start windows did not work ... with new J519 all coded and factory mode switched off 1 key remote can not be adapted and now i have it down to 425ma drain shows TPMS module 65 does not go to sleep ... basic settings were out to lunch tire pressure values were around 6 bar re set that to 2.4 bar ... still will not go to sleep .... so this one has too many things wrong at the same time .... new battery as well from auto joke i kinda suspect the battery was installed reverse polarity ...... so keep that in mind ... sometimes these really off the wall issues are customer created "You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. YOU Dig." wait a while .... i have a gun too and a mini excavator
  5. Maybe a basic setting or adaptation in AW 01 for the neutral safety switch AFTER you replace the shifter IF the car has DSG / Mechatronix The headlight sweeping may be speed dependent .... sometimes there is a threshold to be exceeded before sweep function works ... which may tie into shifter implausibility signal / condition
  6. Reader coil and instrument cluster are KA KA we can restore function with ODIS how ever when you see "key signal low " or missing ....( P1570 with 1176 ) it is usually game over ... hi voltage driver in the cluster pings key thru reader coil ... if reader coil fails internally it screws the driver in the cluster (immobilizer) .... when key does not answer the ping because the reader coil never charged up and pinged the key so immobilizer says up thine.......no start to ECM engine will crank / start / stall immobilizer light is flashing now Reader coil / lock cylinder (order by VIN , matched to the car ) is plug and play .... cluster is not .... you need GEKO account VCDS will never do it .... DO NOT attempt a used cluster 50% of them are already smoked and the rest will expire shortly
  7. Auto scan provided is NOT correct as it is missing low voltage faults in all modules DISCONNECT Alternator B+ at fuse block A as bad diode will allow current flow key off . 700ma is / may be a light on in the trunk or glove box Radio is pronounced............leave it disconnected Suspect a door latch or harness to a door latch ... start in AW 19 and with hood opened and hood latch closed , LF door open LF latch closed manually key in pocket , system locked .... scan tool connected ... look in AW 19 to see if any modules are awake ..... if any are see why .... if AW 09 or AW 46 is awake look in MVB to see if all door latches report close and locked ///// before you get to the above probably should inspect all door harnesses inside the bellows at each door for broken wires and or green fuzzies So..........DO NOT PULL ANY FUSE, AS YOU MAY UNLATCH A LATCHED RELAY or circuit AND UNDO THE DRAIN AND BY SO DoING CONCEAL / HIDE THE EVIDENCE YOU ARE SEARCHING FOR .... you can use an accurate DVOM like something yellow with the word FLUKE on it .... to measure voltage drop across each fuse in turn AND when you stumble upon the the circuit with the hi drain the fuse will show a value ...... it will be a few milli amps not a hi value however the fuses with no drain will all show zero Eyes closed, touch any / all relays ..... warm relay indicates it is "on" You can use a 1 ohm resistor in series with battery ... measure voltage drop across 1 OHM 10 WATT RESISTOR ... since E=IR (voltage = current x resistance) and R = 1 then E = I ... voltage drop across 1 ohm resistor = current in the circuit ..... saves on 20 dollar fuse in yellow meters ..... do not use AMP CLAMP as they are notoriously INaccurate at lower ends of the scale
  8. so you also have a fault for no T30 at G85 steering angle sensor and it makes sense that the system may need input from G85 for headlight aiming ..... so have you done basic setting of G85 ? does AW 44 and or G85 have KAM / T30 voltage ? system would be happy on T15 key on but if it had no KAM T30 it would not remember settings when key is cycled and T15 goes to sleep... which is a good description of what you have .... i would check to see iIF you have KAM / T30 at G85 / AW 44 and the headlight module .... BEFORE pronouncing any module
  9. or hold the park brake switch in the apply position and switch key to on while still holding repeat mike webb is great about 6 times and release park brake switch . system will get happy IF there is nothing broken in the system
  10. By eyeball just confirm you have no bulbs missing or non functional i would look at the connections to the headlights and verify they are not damaged or corroded including the connections to the alleged new modules on the bottom of the headlamp .... also there are differing types of headlamp assemblies and if everything was (allegedly) replaced. We see sometimes the body shop will use non HID LED assemblies where HID LED were original equipment, and if so, the system will never get happy UNTIL long coding is updated to reflect what is in the car. IF it is even compatible Very often Chinese copies will just never work correctly Verify PART Number is correct for the application!!
  11. if it was a used engine - did you swap over the original PS pump or did the pump come with the engine ? if it is NOT the original pump, install the original pump now, watch for packing caps covers during the swap
  12. so in VW land this is common failure in TDIs and it will cause P0299 as well the exhaust flap is just there to increase exhaust pressure so that EGR has a large enough pressure differential so that the hi pressure exhaust will flow into the low pressure intake not rocket science ... remove the exhaust back pressure assembly ... if the flap does not move freely stop to stop ...replace it.... while you are there ... watch for rodent chews on the harness or impact to whatever under the car whenever possible operate in KISS format .... adding UNrefined NON gmo cold pressed coconut oil to the tech will improve KISS abilities and outcomes .
  13. we do not really have a credible way to COMPLETELY / THOROUGHLY / ACCURATELY test oil specification here in USA ..... wait forgot about blackstone labs ....http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
  14. this looks like a very real probability , if you pinch the return line 1 second prior to switching key to off then back to key on engine off .... if the pressure relief valve was the problem hi side pressure will climb to near 100 bar or more that relief valve opens at 120bar to dump hi side pressure into the return line and so hi side pressure should never exceed 120bar ... HOWever if hi side pressure drops with return line pinched off something else ( like an injector ) is leaking hi side pressure where i am we do not see those valves leak ....very often... which does not mean that your valve is good . i see that after reviewing the post .... still pondering how we can have 93 3 at -8 degrees
  15. yes no so on a hot engine this value will climb to over 100 bar as the fuel is going to be boiling IF there are no hi pressure leaks pressure should not drop at all on hot engine simple but UN recommended test is to close off (pinch) the rubber low pressure line before it connects to the hi side pump and view hi side actual to see if it continues to drop , which narrows the focus of what can be leaking ... i use MVB 106 for hi pressure and MVB 103 for low pressure no reason not to use MVB 230 other than there is more scrolling to get to it the 93 3 value of -8 degrees with new timing belt and cam gear and rear chain is not expected to say the least . now i have NOT see this myself , there is the possibility that the lobe on the intake cam that drives the fuel pump has shifted OR something else on the intake cam has shifted on the shaft everything is pressed on the cam is not machined like in the old days ... this possibility is in the repair info tech solutions ... was the cam follower replaced ? for the hi side pump ? i will re visit the body of this post