Tony Laurin

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Tony Laurin last won the day on April 2

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About Tony Laurin

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  • Birthday 05/25/1960

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    39 yrs

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  1. I wanted to add that, if you do have a weird, or sticky kind of problem, it is best to use OEM battery and code it to the module. That way, if problem persists, at least you are not questioning the battery and can move on to the next step, whatever that may be.
  2. I have a way to get around having to buy dealer battery. You can use a Bosch battery if it is cheaper to do so, and more $$$ for your shop. First, make sure the Bosch battery you are installing has the same Ah. rating as the original Buy a battery from the dealer, and just use the coding from the Varta battery to register your Bosch battery, then send the dealer battery back. You might want to write down the numbers and keep them for the next vehicle you get with that same type battery and same a.h. rating (it will work).
  3. All great points there Mike. I have found this procedure to be a sure-fire method of pinpointing parasitic drains. I have actually encountered a similar vehicle with more than one parasitic battery drain which exhibited current draw fluctuations from 300 mA to 500 mA. Current draw dropped to a non fluctuating 125 mA with alternator disconnected. The remainder of the power drain threw me for a loop when i first was unable to locate the source of the problem by checking all the fuses using the voltage drop method, and then testing any other related circuits. Finally, by actually physically following the power circuit, i uncovered a hidden "BOOMERANG ANTI-THEFT VEHICLE LOCATING DEVICE"
  4. Hi Heyward Question. When you performed the above procedures did you go to login first, and was the login 16 character code accepted? did you get a prompt saying "login successful"?
  5. You are going to need that 16 character security access for the login, in order to do a basic setting. If you are unable to get it lets say possibly from a dealership, then I think you may be outta luck & you are going to either get ODIS & GEKO ACCOUNT or send it to dealership. Furthermore, if the modules were incorrectly coded you would have also had a 01042 (module J431 incorrectly coded)
  6. The Energy Diagnosis is always a good idea. Can't wait to see what the results will be. I had one of these in about a year ago, and performed all of the above. I checked IBS wave, was fine. Checked ground strap between engine and frame, and found it was badly corroded. Replaced it, and it still same problem. Next, I accessed the DME tested for voltage drops across power supplies and ground. Since there was no more than 30mV or 0.030VDC. I retested the alternator and found that it did not have a clean sine wave, so I finally replaced the alternator, and problem went away.
  7. Hi group, I've been following this post, and was very interested on the outcome. I also clicked on the link, and was surprised at how much information that one link contained. I have been following the progress on the InfoServer, and quickly perused the content. As a Platinum Member, I do plan to take the time to get to know more about the content, and do some further in-depth reading. I truly believe it will be time well spent, since a lot of the information, for most of us here "in the trenches" is difficult to find. The InfoServer was a long awaited feature, but well worth the wait. Kudos for all that hard work
  8. I'm closing this as a NOT FIXED. I was away for some time, and the Boss told me the customer declined any further tests . Apparently, this vehicle got sold for parts.
  9. It was discussed when I first looked at it, unfortunately the decision was not mine. Anyhow, I finally convinced my boss to order a new key and FOB from BMW. And had him warn the customer that this is the first step, if it works...lucky you. If it doesn't you still needed it, and we go from there.. We are suspecting the CAS as well. customer agreed to get it fixed at a later date.
  10. Client didn't just purchased this vehicle with that Key FOB. He's not sure what is what. is in fact a non easy access car.
  11. Thanks guys, I've located the antenna, but on this model, the wires are routed to the M-ASK. So, I can't see how it would send signal to the CAS. I'm thinking that the CAS receives the key FOB signal directly. But have not found any publication that claims it to be so. I believe some more digging is required. Since this KEY and FOB are aftermarket, we are ordering a new one with the proper key, so we can also try door lock cylinder function.
  12. Have you tried DME EWS alignment function with your scan tool?
  13. Thanks Jivi! I will check it out.
  14. No more codes in the CAS. The door locks work with central lock button The key blade is uncut, therefore I'm unable to insert it in door lock.
  15. Point taken Angelo. I have checked the interior trunk release button, and found it to be defective. If I jump switch connector pin 3 to pin 4 trunk lid unlatches. Still don't know which module reads the lock function of the Key FOB, and it's location.